How to Care for Tall Boots

Regular cleaning and proper care of your field, dress or dressage boots can extend their life and keep them looking new. Follow these guidelines to keep your favorite boots in great shape. To browse our entire selection of tall boots online, click here.

1. Wipe dirt, manure and horse sweat from the surface of your tall riding boots with a barely damp cloth or sponge after every use. These contaminants leech moisture from the leather and can rot the stitching. Dust and dirt can cause abrasions and cracking.


2. Use cleaning and conditioning products designed specifically for boots, rather than using a tack cleaner. You can choose from a range of products designed to clean and shine boots here. Never use household cleaners on your boots as they may permanently damage the leather. It is best to check your boot manufacturer’s guidelines for the appropriate product. When it comes time to shine your tall riding boots, apply a boot cream or boot polish to a clean boot with a soft rag, then buff with a boot polishing brush followed by another clean rag until the boot is shiny.


3. Protect your boots on wet days by using overshoes such as Tingley Rubbers. Be sure to remove overshoes before storage. Condensation forms between the boot, your foot and the overshoe when you wear these covers, so air must be allowed to circulate and dry the sole of the boot to prevent mildewing and to preserve the integrity of the stitching afterward. If your tall riding boots get wet, allow them to dry completely and naturally at room temperature before wearing them again. Never place wet leather boots near a heat source such as a radiator, fireplace, wood stove or space heater.


4. Insert boot trees in your tall boots when not being worn to maintain their shape and the life of the zippers. Cedar Boot Trees help repel moisture and pests, whereas plastic boot trees are the most economical option.

Note: Allow perspiration inside the boots to dry naturally before inserting plastic trees. As with all leather products, your tall riding boots should be stored in a temperature-controlled environment that is free from rodents. Extreme heat and cold temperatures are detrimental to leather.



Improperly stored tall riding boots without boot trees.


Properly stored tall riding boots with boot trees inserted.


How to Care for Boot Zippers

• Ensure your leg measurements do not exceed the size prescribed for your brand of boots. This is the key to the longevity of your boot zippers.


• Pull the zipper down completely before you slip your foot into or out of the boot.


• Never force a zipper to close.


• Remove dust or sand from the zipper teeth using a toothbrush or similar tool. Add just a bit of water to the brush if you need to remove salt from the zipper.


• Use Zipper Ease® to extend the life of your zippers and make them zip smoothly. This is an easy-to-use stick lubricant that rubs on like a crayon to keep metal or plastic zippers working smoothly.

Related Articles:
How to Check the Fit of New Tall Boots
How to Measure for Stock Tall Boots

Tack Cleaning and Leather Care

Think of your tack as an investment. You've spent time and money in selecting the best quality leather goods for you and your horse. With diligent and correct leather care, including proper tack and leather storage, you can get the maximum return on your investment through its long and safe use.

Saddles, Bridles, Martingales, Breastplates and Girths

Leather is skin. Just as your skin suffers abrasions and dryness from irritants like sweat and dirt, your leather does too. The key to tack longevity is the practice of daily leather cleaning after every ride.

The traditional method of leather care is to wipe dust and sweat from your tack immediately after use with a sponge or cloth that is barely moistened with cool water. Then rub a thin layer of glycerin soap on the leather to seal the pores and keep it soft but not sticky. Newer methods involve convenient and easy-to-use leather cleaning and conditioning products, a wide array of which exists on the market today. You can choose from one-step cleaning and conditioning creams or two-step systems with a cleaning solution followed by a conditioning agent that restores moisture.

Note: Almost every saddle and tack manufacturer has a recommendation or product preference for leather cleaning and conditioning products. Some tack manufacturers produce their own products. Always follow manufacturer's guidelines when considering commercial leather cleaners and conditioners.

Be sure to clean the parts of your tack that are under pressure during use or where sweat or saliva may collect. These areas include the curves near buckles where reins and cheek pieces attach to bit rings, all parts of girths, billet straps and the creases in stirrup leathers where irons rest. The cleaning process is also a good time to check that stitching is tight and intact, and that the leather has not ripped or cracked.

For tack that has been neglected over time or that is extremely dirty, use warm water and a soft brush to remove collected grime. You may choose to use a pH-balanced cleaner, such as Lexol Cleaner. Because warm water is extremely drying to leather, immediately follow it with a fine layer of glycerin soap or a leather conditioner, such as Lexol Conditioner.

Very dry leather may need to be treated on its underside with a thin coat of warmed Neatsfoot Oil, or fed with a thick saddle food such as Effax Lederbalsam, Passier Lederbalsam or Stubben Hammanol.

Leather Storage
Leather tack can be attractive to rodents when food sources are scarce. Try to secure your tack room from these unwanted visitors. Tack is best maintained with daily use and cleaning. However, if your tack has to be stored for an extended time, try to place it in a temperature-controlled environment. Extreme cold and heat are detrimental to leather.

Cover stored tack in fabric or newspaper so the leather can breathe rather than in plastic that does not allow air to circulate. Be sure to check your unused equipment occasionally for mildew, and remember to condition it regularly to prevent it from drying out.

Bit Care and Cleaning
Rinse your bit in water or wipe it thoroughly after every use. Dried food particles on a bit are abrasive to your horse's mouth. Additionally, it is far easier to clean a bit on a regular basis rather than scrubbing off accumulated grime.

Over time, bits may become tarnished from use and storage. Products on the market, such as Herm Sprenger Diamond Paste or Nevr-Dull Wadding Polish, remove layers of tarnish. Non-toxic, non-acidic and developed for use on mouthpieces and all types of metal, HS Diamond Paste helps prevent tarnish from recurring. (You can also use it on your spurs and metal stirrup irons!) Nevr-Dull is easily used by pulling a wad of the saturated cloth from the tin and rubbing until black can no longer be seen on the cloth. Wash the mouthpiece thoroughly to remove any trace of the product after polishing.

Synthetic Saddles, Halters and Horse Boots
To clean a synthetic saddle, use a mixture of gentle soap and warm water. You can soak smaller synthetic articles like nylon halters or neoprene splint boots in a gentle soap and warm water solution to loosen grime. Stuck on dirt can sometimes be removed with a soft brush while the item is still wet. Rinse or hose thoroughly, and allow the items to dry naturally in the sun.

"Tall boots" for the English riding disciplines is a broad term that encompasses field, dress and dressage boots. Each boot style nods to the tradition of the equestrian sport, offers details that reflect current fashion trends, and most importantly, provides specific functionality to the rider. Field boots are typically made of leather with some degree of suppleness and with laces at the front of the ankle. This type of boot allows the rider to achieve a correct heels-down foot position for jumping, enjoy the flexibility to ride in shorter stirrups and experience a close contact feel at the inside calf.
Dress boots, which present a more formal appearance, are also as soft and supple as field boots, but they do not have laces at the ankle. Dressage boots are much stiffer than field or dress boots. Constructed with a stiffener up the back and offered in leather with various degrees of stiffness, a dressage boot should not drop much at the ankle. The design supports the rider's relatively flat foot position in the stirrup and a long, elegant leg position, which provides maximum area contact with the horse's sides. Dover Saddlery offers a wide selection of tall boots from all the leading brands, from entry-level to premium price points, and from the most classic to the most fashionable. Can't find a stock boot that's just right for you? Custom tall boots are available here, too.

How to Clean Your Riding Boots

Regularly give your boots a thorough cleaning, conditioning or shining using only products and brushes designed specifically for boot leather. Do not use glycerin soap, a tack cleaner or a household cleaner on any part of your boot or its sole.

You'll want to wipe dirt, manure and horse sweat from the surface of your boots after every ride using a barely damp cloth or sponge. If there's dirt on the welt stitching and zipper, try using a soft-bristled brush. Use a stiff-bristled brush to remove caked material from outsoles. Keep in mind that any contaminants left on boot leather leech moisture, promote cracking and weaken or rot the stitching. Additionally, hardened dust and dirt from previous rides cause premature wear and abrasions, and grit in zipper teeth can prevent proper functioning. If you wear spurs, unbuckle the spur straps to clean the leather underneath them.

You'll want to use a soft rag to apply a boot cream or boot polish to the clean, dry leather. Let the product absorb into the leather for several minutes and avoid putting polish on zipper teeth. Buff boots with a polishing brush followed by buffing with another clean rag until the boot is shiny. Be sure to use a gentle brush to remove polish from welt stitching. Always check to see what kind of polish and brush your boot manufacturer recommends. Some manufacturers supply products that work best on their boot leather.

For thorough zipper care, vacuum or brush away debris before applying a thin coat of Zipper-Ease®, the stick lubricant that rubs on like a crayon and extends the life of your zippers.

How to Measure for Tall Boots
You'll need a helper and a cloth measuring tape to take accurate measurements.

• Wear the breeches and socks that you're most likely to wear with your new boots.
• Sit in a straight chair with your stocking feet flat on the floor and knees at a 90 degree angle.
• For calf width, have your helper measure the circumference of your calf at its widest point.


Note: Do not add increments to your calf measurement. Boot leather stretches as it breaks in. New boots should fit snugly and should be slightly difficult to put on. If the boots are too large when you purchase them, they will only become looser over time and will increase the risk of the boot dropping too much resulting in a shortened height.


• For boot height, have your helper measure from the floor to the back of your knee.

Boot height is a matter of personal preference. Some riders prefer a very tall boot, while others prefer a shorter boot. In general, for field boots you'll want to add 1 1/2 to 2 inches to your height measurement. For a moderately stiff dressage boot, you'll want to add 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches. Also, check the riding boot size chart on the ordering tab for your desired brand of boots to determine whether you should make any specific height adjustments.



Note: Styles in both field and dress boots that feature a Spanish top help to create an elongated look as up to 1 to 1 1/2 inches of curved leather is added to the outside of the top of the boot. A Spanish top is cut higher and more curved than a regular boot top.




• Match your calf width and height measurements to the riding boot sizing chart pertaining to the brand of boot you wish to order.

If you're considering zippered boots, look for a calf measurement that is as close to or a smidge over your measurement to avoid stressing the zippers. If your calf measurement is as little as 1/8 inch wider than the calf measurement listed for your expected size, you may want to consider the next size up or you may have problems with the boot zippers. If the next size up seems as though it will be too wide for your calf and the boot would be too loose, then consider another boot that will fit your leg better. It is not uncommon when choosing from stock tall boots for riders to consider all size charts and all manufacturers to find their optimal boot.

Shoe size pertains to your usual size for footwear. Some riders choose to go up a foot size if their desired boot height is not available with their regular size. Extra space in the foot can be taken up with an extra foot bed, gel sole or air cushion.

Note: For boots that are offered in whole foot sizes, factor the type of sock you plan to wear into your decision. For example, if you normally wear size 7 1/2 shoe but the boot you wish to order is offered in whole sizes, the thickness of your socks will determine the correct size to order. For heavy, thick socks, you would choose a size 8; for average, thin socks you would choose a size 7.

How to Check the Fit of Your New Field Boots
Traditional leather field boots drop, soften and crease around your ankle to allow for proper leg positions while riding. The amount of drop depends on the softness of the leather and the boot cut. (Some newer models of tall boots have features to allow immediate, comfortable flexion of the ankle from the first ride, and they won't drop much.)

To allow for intended drop on traditional boots and avoid ending up with boots that are too short after breaking them in, new boots must rise high enough at your knee initially. Most tall riding boots require a slightly uncomfortable break-in time to get the final, proper riding boot fit.

To Assess Boot Fit:

• Wearing the breeches and socks you'll usually wear, put on your boots. They should be somewhat difficult to zip up, but you should be able to close the zipper all the way and snap any closure at the top while standing.
• Your boots should feel very snug around your calf without cutting off your circulation. If the boot fit is too loose, when the boot breaks in and stretches to your leg, it will develop deep folds around your ankle that will press into your skin and cause discomfort. Also, if the boot is too loose, it will drop too much and be too short in height.
• Check the height by ensuring that the fronts of the boots rise to the middle of your kneecaps. If your kneecaps are entirely covered by the boots, then they are too tall. With the ideal height described, your boots will seem uncomfortably tall and will crease slightly at the top back when you bend your knee. The crease will disappear when the boots drop.

TIP: You can see how high your riding boot fit will be after break-in by placing a heel lift in the footbed to raise your leg inside the boot. For more comfort at the back of the knee, some people choose to ride in a heel lift until the boot finishes breaking in.


• Check the feel of the footbed. Make sure you will be comfortable keeping the ball of your foot on a stirrup pad. If you have ordered a shoe size that is a little larger than you would normally wear to obtain a slightly taller boot, place an air cushion, gel sole or other padded footbed in the shoe of the boot to take up extra space.

Leather Grains & Quality

Saddle leather is made from a variety of animal hides. The hides are preserved through a process called tanning, during which a chemical (tannin) is usually applied to the hide. Many methods of tanning have been developed over the centuries. These processes are also used for leather in bridles, halters and other tack.

The most common tannins you'll hear about these days are vegetable-based, resulting from the bark of trees, wood or other plant parts, or chrome-based, where chromium salts are used. Other types of tannins exist, but are less commonly used. Color imparted to the hide during tanning varies depending on the process and tannin used. Dyes and pigments are often applied to leather later in the production process.

After tanning, hides may be split to obtain a material that can be crafted into useful products or apparel. If the top surface of a hide is of exceptional leather quality, meaning that it does not have much damage from insects, scars or brand marks, then it can be used as-is and is called full grain leather.

Full grain leather is the best leather quality because it has not been separated from the top grain or split layers, and is therefore the strongest and most durable type of leather. The grain remains intact, and the pores and patterns of the hide can be seen. As an example, pigskin leather is known for its deep hair follicle pattern, while buffalo leather is known for its pronounced patterning or sometimes pebbly appearance. Full grain leather is the most breathable type of leather, so you'll often find it in boots and saddles. When properly cared for, this type of leather will wear for a long time and develop a rich patina.

Top grain leather is made from hides that are considered to be too flawed to become full grain leather. It has had the split layer of the hide removed from it, leaving it softer and more pliable than full grain leather. The leather is then sanded or buffed to remove flaws. It may have a finish coat added to the surface, making it less breathable than full grain leather. The name "top grain" often confuses consumers as it makes this type of leather seem to be the "top quality." In fact, it is not the highest leather quality- full grain leather is. The grain in this type of leather may be "corrected," where imperfections in the hide are removed through sanding. Then an artificial grain is pressed into the leather and topped with a treatment of pigment or stain. Top grain leather is also used to create suede and nubuck.