About Stirrup Leathers

Your first goal in selecting stirrup leathers should be the effectiveness of your riding. Appropriately sized leathers allow you to make the proper length adjustment for your legs and riding discipline. Your second goal in choosing stirrup leathers is to coordinate their color with the color of your saddle.

Types of Stirrup Leathers

Three types of stirrup leathers are available: traditional, lined or synthetic.

Traditional Stirrup Leathers typically last a long time and maintain their appearance. You can add holes or have leathers shortened by a saddler if needed. The drawback of traditional leathers is that they may stretch slightly over time and use, and can do so a little asymmetrically depending on rider habits. Traditional leathers are easy to clean and condition.

Nylon-core Stirrup /Leathers were developed as a way to help guard against stretching. Nylon webbing, which has very little stretch, is surrounded by a thin layer of soft leather. Drawbacks of this type of stirrup leather are that holes cannot be punched and the leathers cannot be cut if needed. Depending on the type of soft leather surrounding the nylon, it may not be as durable when compared to a traditional, heavier stirrup leather. The integrity of the nylon inside the soft leather is unlikely to change, and the functionality will likely remain. These types of leathers are easy to clean and should be conditioned with a lederbalsam.

Synthetic Stirrup Leathers are produced by synthetic saddle manufacturers. Although there is no rule against it, you may not want to put synthetic stirrup leathers against a leather saddle as the synthetic materials tend to scratch leather saddle flaps. Synthetic leathers can be cleaned with a mild soap and water solution.

Stirrup Leathers Preferences

Stirrup leathers are available with holes spaced at one-inch and half-inch intervals. Some riders strongly prefer the more precise length adjustment provided by the half-inch inch (also known as half-hole) leathers.

Another preference you might consider is leather width. Leathers generally are available in three widths: 1 inch, 7/8 inch and 3/4 inch. Many riders looking to reduce bulk under the leg choose the narrower widths, which are also especially helpful for children and small riders.

Buckles are key components of stirrup leathers too. They are fashioned of stainless steel for durability and strength, and they come in two basic designs—curved and flat. Some riders prefer the traditional flat buckle, while others find that the slightly curved buckles tuck into the stirrup bar area more smoothly to reduce bulk under their thighs.

You can also choose the finishing characteristics of your stirrup leathers, which could include beveled edges or subtle stitching for extra style. After you've decided on the type of leathers you'd like, consider color and length, as outlined below.

Color of Stirrup Leathers

If you have a dressage saddle, chances are it is black. Color matching your stirrup leathers to your saddle will be easy! Brown jumping saddles, however, can create a bit of a challenge for coordinating color.

Because leather used in making saddles is not the same type used in making stirrup leathers, an exact color match is unlikely. Even when produced by the same manufacturer, the different leathers will accept dye slightly differently.

If you have a used brown saddle, it has probably darkened with time and conditioning. You should be able to coordinate the current color of your saddle with the brown of your leathers, understanding that the leathers too will darken slightly with conditioning.

If your saddle is new, consider how it and the leathers you select will change hue as you condition them. If the brown of the leather appears to have red undertones, for example, it may appear to be even redder after oiling. A shade of medium brown leather may never darken enough to match a very dark, or ebony brown saddle. A good quality leather stain and conditioning oil may be used to darken leathers.

Helpful Tip: If you want to reduce bulk under your leg as much as possible, look for Bates Leather Webbers. This design allows for just one piece of leather under the leg to create a closer, more comfortable seat and leg contact.

Stirrup Leather Lengths

Correct stirrup leather lengths vary across discipline and are important to help support your position and effectiveness during your ride.

Stirrup Leather Lengths for Hunter, Jumper and Cross Country Riding

For jumping disciplines, the average adult takes 54 inch stirrup leathers. A rider who is short in height may do best with shorter length leathers, from 48 to 52 inch lengths. A tall rider may require a 56 inch length. Children usually require 48 inch leathers, but Pessoa Children's Non-Stretch Stirrup Leathers are offered in 42 inch length for very young children.

Note: If you ride in an all-purpose saddle in which you both jump and work on dressage, be sure you select stirrup leathers that are long enough to accommodate a longer leg length for your flatwork.

Stirrup Leather Lengths for Dressage

In general, the average length of dressage stirrup leathers is 60 inches with the goal being to have the leg hanging long against the horse's side for maximum contact. If you're short in height, you may want to choose stirrup leathers that are 56 or 58 inches; tall dressage riders can find leathers in 62, 64 and 67 inch lengths.

How to Measure Stirrup Leathers

1) Measure the length of your arm from your armpit to the tips of your fingers for hunt seat, or inseam of your leg to the ankle bone for dressage
2) Double this measurement
3) Add a few inches for hunt seat, or add 6-8 inches for dressage

Remember that the height of the stirrup iron will add six to eight inches to the overall length. This measuring technique will give you some surplus to tuck into the stirrup leather keeper on the saddle flap, which in turn will reduce bulk and friction under your leg. However, too much excess leather can be unattractive, and in the show ring can be distracting to the judge.

This measuring technique is merely a guideline and you should make adjustments in your calculations depending on your physical build.

Stirrup Leather Care

Clean and condition your saddle and stirrup leathers regularly to keep them healthy.

As you do, keep these points in mind:
• Stirrup leathers are under stress while you ride. Be sure to monitor the leather where it meets both the buckle and the iron to be sure it isn't cracking.
• Replace your stirrup leathers if you feel they are compromised by loosening stitching or cracking.
• Check to be sure that the release latch on your saddle's stirrup bar is always in the open position to allow the leather to slip from the bar if necessary.

Shopping For Stirrup Irons

Styles & Sizing

About Stirrup Irons

You can choose from a wide array of stirrup irons that can benefit you in various ways. Irons have evolved over time, resulting in a range of types of stirrups, from the traditional Fillis iron to those designed for easy release, to ease joint pain or to provide distinct competitive advantages.

Traditional Look

The most traditional types of stirrups are the Fillis, which are manufactured in varying grades of stainless steel and available in a range of prices. For many riders, simple Fillis irons are a good choice. Their classic appearance makes them popular, acceptable and affordable for both casual riding and the show ring.

Some manufacturers have enhanced the traditional Fillis iron design for hidden benefits to the rider. Offset stirrup irons are one example. Herm Sprenger, in addition to their Fillis Stirrups, designed their Offset Eye Stirrups to help the stirrup leather lie flat against the leg and saddle, giving the rider assistance in keeping the stirrup straight against the ball of the foot. Because the design of these types of stirrups eliminates twisting of the stirrup leather, lost stirrups can be easier to recover.

Another innovative Fillis design comes from Korsteel through the Flex II Stirrups. These irons provide a one-way swivel action in the footpiece, which swivels to a perfect 70 degree angle to assist the rider in keeping the heel down.

Quick Release Stirrups

Quick release stirrups are intended to prevent a rider's foot from being caught in a stirrup. The most traditional form is the Peacock Fillis Stirrup, in which the traditional Fillis iron has an open side that is then "closed" with a rubber ring hooked at the top and attached to a leather tab at the bottom. The rubber rings (or bands) are the breakaway feature of the stirrup; they can be replaced inexpensively when needed. These types of stirrups are popular with many riding schools and camps that teach beginners, as well as with therapeutic riding centers, Pony Clubbers and trail riders. Another popular type of quick release stirrups is the Foot Free Stirrups, which are a centuries-old style revisited. These types of stirrups have a sculpted design on one side of the iron to allow a foot to slip free when necessary.

Technologically Innovated Stirrups

Many types of stirrups have been developed in response to issues experienced by avid or competitive riders. To help alleviate joint pain, manufacturers built flexion into the sides, or branches, of stirrup irons. The Herm Sprenger line of 4-F stirrups pivot in four directions simultaneously, allowing greater comfort and flexibility to help alleviate tension and pain in the hips, knees and ankles by softening the impact on joints, cartilage and ligaments. From the 4-F line, riders can choose the Original System 4-F with treads that adapt to the foot for consistent contact, or the Bow Balance Stirrups with shock-absorbing footbed and anatomical design.

Horse-S Jointed Irons and Intec UMS 6-Way Stirrups allow flexion in the stirrup branches to help absorb impact and help alleviate knee and back pain. MDC Ultimate Stirrups have a patented, adjustable top that allows the rider to select one of three stirrup positions—traditional, 45 degree or 90 degree—along with flexible sides for even greater comfort. Royal Rider Flexible Stirrups combine the advantage of a lightweight material with flexion built into the stirrup branches.

Competitive riders looking for the lightest weight stirrups can choose Composite Stirrups, Equi-Wing Wide Track Stirrups or Royal Rider Original Stirrups, all weighing 200 grams or less.

How to Select the Right Size Stirrup Iron

No matter what kind of iron you plan to ride in, the most important aspect is correct sizing. Your irons should be one inch wider than the width of your boot at the ball of the foot. When your foot is in place, you should have ½ inch of space on each side. While you don’t want your boot to fit too snugly into your iron, you also don’t want your stirrup to be too wide. This could allow your foot could slip “home” more easily, and you may struggle to keep your stirrups the correct position on the balls of your feet.

Helpful Tip: Buy a new pair of winter boots? Remember to check the width of your stirrups. Winter boots are usually wider than all season boots.

Curious? Ever wonder why stirrups on an English saddle are called irons? The answer is simple—they were originally crafted of iron!

Leather Grains & Quality

Saddle leather is made from a variety of animal hides. The hides are preserved through a process called tanning, during which a chemical (tannin) is usually applied to the hide. Many methods of tanning have been developed over the centuries. These processes are also used for leather in bridles, halters and other tack.

The most common tannins you'll hear about these days are vegetable-based, resulting from the bark of trees, wood or other plant parts, or chrome-based, where chromium salts are used. Other types of tannins exist, but are less commonly used. Color imparted to the hide during tanning varies depending on the process and tannin used. Dyes and pigments are often applied to leather later in the production process.

After tanning, hides may be split to obtain a material that can be crafted into useful products or apparel. If the top surface of a hide is of exceptional leather quality, meaning that it does not have much damage from insects, scars or brand marks, then it can be used as-is and is called full grain leather.

Full grain leather is the best leather quality because it has not been separated from the top grain or split layers, and is therefore the strongest and most durable type of leather. The grain remains intact, and the pores and patterns of the hide can be seen. As an example, pigskin leather is known for its deep hair follicle pattern, while buffalo leather is known for its pronounced patterning or sometimes pebbly appearance. Full grain leather is the most breathable type of leather, so you'll often find it in boots and saddles. When properly cared for, this type of leather will wear for a long time and develop a rich patina.

Top grain leather is made from hides that are considered to be too flawed to become full grain leather. It has had the split layer of the hide removed from it, leaving it softer and more pliable than full grain leather. The leather is then sanded or buffed to remove flaws. It may have a finish coat added to the surface, making it less breathable than full grain leather. The name "top grain" often confuses consumers as it makes this type of leather seem to be the "top quality." In fact, it is not the highest leather quality- full grain leather is. The grain in this type of leather may be "corrected," where imperfections in the hide are removed through sanding. Then an artificial grain is pressed into the leather and topped with a treatment of pigment or stain. Top grain leather is also used to create suede and nubuck.

Tack Cleaning and Leather Care

Think of your tack as an investment. You've spent time and money in selecting the best quality leather goods for you and your horse. With diligent and correct leather care, including proper tack and leather storage, you can get the maximum return on your investment through its long and safe use.

Saddles, Bridles, Martingales, Breastplates and Girths

Leather is skin. Just as your skin suffers abrasions and dryness from irritants like sweat and dirt, your leather does too. The key to tack longevity is the practice of daily leather cleaning after every ride.

The traditional method of leather care is to wipe dust and sweat from your tack immediately after use with a sponge or cloth that is barely moistened with cool water. Then rub a thin layer of glycerin soap on the leather to seal the pores and keep it soft but not sticky. Newer methods involve convenient and easy-to-use leather cleaning and conditioning products, a wide array of which exists on the market today. You can choose from one-step cleaning and conditioning creams or two-step systems with a cleaning solution followed by a conditioning agent that restores moisture.

Note: Almost every saddle and tack manufacturer has a recommendation or product preference for leather cleaning and conditioning products. Some tack manufacturers produce their own products. Always follow manufacturer's guidelines when considering commercial leather cleaners and conditioners.

Be sure to clean the parts of your tack that are under pressure during use or where sweat or saliva may collect. These areas include the curves near buckles where reins and cheek pieces attach to bit rings, all parts of girths, billet straps and the creases in stirrup leathers where irons rest. The cleaning process is also a good time to check that stitching is tight and intact, and that the leather has not ripped or cracked.

For tack that has been neglected over time or that is extremely dirty, use warm water and a soft brush to remove collected grime. You may choose to use a pH-balanced cleaner, such as Lexol Cleaner. Because warm water is extremely drying to leather, immediately follow it with a fine layer of glycerin soap or a leather conditioner, such as Lexol Conditioner.

Very dry leather may need to be treated on its underside with a thin coat of warmed Neatsfoot Oil, or fed with a thick saddle food such as Effax Lederbalsam, Passier Lederbalsam or Stubben Hammanol.

Leather Storage
Leather tack can be attractive to rodents when food sources are scarce. Try to secure your tack room from these unwanted visitors. Tack is best maintained with daily use and cleaning. However, if your tack has to be stored for an extended time, try to place it in a temperature-controlled environment. Extreme cold and heat are detrimental to leather.

Cover stored tack in fabric or newspaper so the leather can breathe rather than in plastic that does not allow air to circulate. Be sure to check your unused equipment occasionally for mildew, and remember to condition it regularly to prevent it from drying out.

Bit Care and Cleaning
Rinse your bit in water or wipe it thoroughly after every use. Dried food particles on a bit are abrasive to your horse's mouth. Additionally, it is far easier to clean a bit on a regular basis rather than scrubbing off accumulated grime.

Over time, bits may become tarnished from use and storage. Products on the market, such as Herm Sprenger Diamond Paste or Nevr-Dull Wadding Polish, remove layers of tarnish. Non-toxic, non-acidic and developed for use on mouthpieces and all types of metal, HS Diamond Paste helps prevent tarnish from recurring. (You can also use it on your spurs and metal stirrup irons!) Nevr-Dull is easily used by pulling a wad of the saturated cloth from the tin and rubbing until black can no longer be seen on the cloth. Wash the mouthpiece thoroughly to remove any trace of the product after polishing.

Synthetic Saddles, Halters and Horse Boots
To clean a synthetic saddle, use a mixture of gentle soap and warm water. You can soak smaller synthetic articles like nylon halters or neoprene splint boots in a gentle soap and warm water solution to loosen grime. Stuck on dirt can sometimes be removed with a soft brush while the item is still wet. Rinse or hose thoroughly, and allow the items to dry naturally in the sun.