Leather Grains & Quality

Saddle leather is made from a variety of animal hides. The hides are preserved through a process called tanning, during which a chemical (tannin) is usually applied to the hide. Many methods of tanning have been developed over the centuries. These processes are also used for leather in bridles, halters and other tack.

The most common tannins you'll hear about these days are vegetable-based, resulting from the bark of trees, wood or other plant parts, or chrome-based, where chromium salts are used. Other types of tannins exist, but are less commonly used. Color imparted to the hide during tanning varies depending on the process and tannin used. Dyes and pigments are often applied to leather later in the production process.

After tanning, hides may be split to obtain a material that can be crafted into useful products or apparel. If the top surface of a hide is of exceptional leather quality, meaning that it does not have much damage from insects, scars or brand marks, then it can be used as-is and is called full grain leather.

Full grain leather is the best leather quality because it has not been separated from the top grain or split layers, and is therefore the strongest and most durable type of leather. The grain remains intact, and the pores and patterns of the hide can be seen. As an example, pigskin leather is known for its deep hair follicle pattern, while buffalo leather is known for its pronounced patterning or sometimes pebbly appearance. Full grain leather is the most breathable type of leather, so you'll often find it in boots and saddles. When properly cared for, this type of leather will wear for a long time and develop a rich patina.

Top grain leather is made from hides that are considered to be too flawed to become full grain leather. It has had the split layer of the hide removed from it, leaving it softer and more pliable than full grain leather. The leather is then sanded or buffed to remove flaws. It may have a finish coat added to the surface, making it less breathable than full grain leather. The name "top grain" often confuses consumers as it makes this type of leather seem to be the "top quality." In fact, it is not the highest leather quality- full grain leather is. The grain in this type of leather may be "corrected," where imperfections in the hide are removed through sanding. Then an artificial grain is pressed into the leather and topped with a treatment of pigment or stain. Top grain leather is also used to create suede and nubuck.

Tack Cleaning and Leather Care

Think of your tack as an investment. You've spent time and money in selecting the best quality leather goods for you and your horse. With diligent and correct leather care, including proper tack and leather storage, you can get the maximum return on your investment through its long and safe use.

Saddles, Bridles, Martingales, Breastplates and Girths

Leather is skin. Just as your skin suffers abrasions and dryness from irritants like sweat and dirt, your leather does too. The key to tack longevity is the practice of daily leather cleaning after every ride.

The traditional method of leather care is to wipe dust and sweat from your tack immediately after use with a sponge or cloth that is barely moistened with cool water. Then rub a thin layer of glycerin soap on the leather to seal the pores and keep it soft but not sticky. Newer methods involve convenient and easy-to-use leather cleaning and conditioning products, a wide array of which exists on the market today. You can choose from one-step cleaning and conditioning creams or two-step systems with a cleaning solution followed by a conditioning agent that restores moisture.

Note: Almost every saddle and tack manufacturer has a recommendation or product preference for leather cleaning and conditioning products. Some tack manufacturers produce their own products. Always follow manufacturer's guidelines when considering commercial leather cleaners and conditioners.

Be sure to clean the parts of your tack that are under pressure during use or where sweat or saliva may collect. These areas include the curves near buckles where reins and cheek pieces attach to bit rings, all parts of girths, billet straps and the creases in stirrup leathers where irons rest. The cleaning process is also a good time to check that stitching is tight and intact, and that the leather has not ripped or cracked.

For tack that has been neglected over time or that is extremely dirty, use warm water and a soft brush to remove collected grime. You may choose to use a pH-balanced cleaner, such as Lexol Cleaner. Because warm water is extremely drying to leather, immediately follow it with a fine layer of glycerin soap or a leather conditioner, such as Lexol Conditioner.

Very dry leather may need to be treated on its underside with a thin coat of warmed Neatsfoot Oil, or fed with a thick saddle food such as Effax Lederbalsam, Passier Lederbalsam or Stubben Hammanol.

Leather Storage
Leather tack can be attractive to rodents when food sources are scarce. Try to secure your tack room from these unwanted visitors. Tack is best maintained with daily use and cleaning. However, if your tack has to be stored for an extended time, try to place it in a temperature-controlled environment. Extreme cold and heat are detrimental to leather.

Cover stored tack in fabric or newspaper so the leather can breathe rather than in plastic that does not allow air to circulate. Be sure to check your unused equipment occasionally for mildew, and remember to condition it regularly to prevent it from drying out.

Bit Care and Cleaning
Rinse your bit in water or wipe it thoroughly after every use. Dried food particles on a bit are abrasive to your horse's mouth. Additionally, it is far easier to clean a bit on a regular basis rather than scrubbing off accumulated grime.

Over time, bits may become tarnished from use and storage. Products on the market, such as Herm Sprenger Diamond Paste or Nevr-Dull Wadding Polish, remove layers of tarnish. Non-toxic, non-acidic and developed for use on mouthpieces and all types of metal, HS Diamond Paste helps prevent tarnish from recurring. (You can also use it on your spurs and metal stirrup irons!) Nevr-Dull is easily used by pulling a wad of the saturated cloth from the tin and rubbing until black can no longer be seen on the cloth. Wash the mouthpiece thoroughly to remove any trace of the product after polishing.

Synthetic Saddles, Halters and Horse Boots
To clean a synthetic saddle, use a mixture of gentle soap and warm water. You can soak smaller synthetic articles like nylon halters or neoprene splint boots in a gentle soap and warm water solution to loosen grime. Stuck on dirt can sometimes be removed with a soft brush while the item is still wet. Rinse or hose thoroughly, and allow the items to dry naturally in the sun.

How to Choose Your Stirrup Leathers
For a leather saddle, get stirrup leathers made of leather; for a synthetic saddle, get "leathers" in manmade materials. Mixing leather with synthetic leather can cause abrasions on your saddle's flaps. Choose a color that coordinates with the color of your saddle; an exact match of brown leather is not necessary.

Types of Stirrup Leathers

• Traditional all-leather stirrup leathers are durable. You can add holes easily or have them shortened by a saddler if needed. The drawback of this type is that they may stretch slightly with use and can do so a asymmetrically depending on your riding habits.
• Lined stirrup leathers resist uneven stretching. Synthetic webbing is wrapped in a thin layer of supple leather. Drawbacks of this type are that holes cannot be punched, the length cannot be cut and the soft leather may not be as durable as that in traditional leathers.
• Synthetic stirrup leathers look just like traditional leathers and resist stretching.
• Webbers, available in both synthetic materials and leather, have a buckle-free design that reduces bulk under your legs.

Stirrup Leather Lengths: General Guideline

• 48" child/petite adult rider for jumping/general riding
• 52" petite adult rider for jumping/general riding
• 54" average adult rider for jumping/general riding
• 56" tall adult rider for jumping/youth and short adult rider for dressage
• 59-60" average adult rider for dressage
• 62", 64", 67" tall adult rider for dressage

Additional Attributes to Consider

• Hole spacing: leathers are available with holes spaced at one-inch and half-inch intervals. Some riders strongly prefer the more precise length adjustment provided by the half-inch inch (also known as half-hole) leathers.
• Width: Leathers generally are available in three widths: 1 inch, 7/8 inch and 3/4 inch. Many riders looking to reduce bulk under the leg choose the narrower widths, which are also especially helpful for children and small riders.
• Buckles: They may be curved or flat. Some riders prefer the traditional flat buckle, while others find that the slightly curved buckles tuck into the stirrup bar area more smoothly to reduce bulk under their thighs.