Guidelines for Sizing a Jumping Saddle to a Hunter/Jumper Rider
A jumping, often called close contact, saddle that fits you well will help you achieve a correct riding position for taking fences and working on the flat. You'll require a fairly shallow seat with a low pommel and low cantle. Depending on your preferences, you may want knee rolls and rear thigh blocks (these vary greatly between models) combined with forward, short flaps with padded knee pads. Stirrup bars may be placed in a forward position. Together, these design features will allow you to assume a forward seat position with a short stirrup length.

Typically, a jumping saddle will have a fairly narrow "twist" to promote a close contact feel, though it is an aspect of saddle tree design intended to accommodate the horse's shape more than the rider's. The twist is located behind the pommel at the front of the saddle's seat. The front of any saddle tree has a steep angle to accommodate a horse's withers, while the back of the tree has a flatter angle to accommodate a horse's back. The twist occurs where the bars of the tree "twist" to form the transition between the front and back of the tree. The width of the strip of leather over the twist does not necessarily indicate the width of the twist.

If you feel like you're sitting on a wide board when you sit in a saddle, then the twist is too wide for your build. A twist appropriately sized for you will allow your legs to hang down softly. If a twist is too narrow for you, you won't feel supported. A professional saddle consultant can be sure that your ideal twist is appropriate for your horse's build.

Jumping saddles come with many differences of seat depth, flap rotations and flap lengths to accommodate rider preferences. Consider these guidelines as you look for your perfect fit in a jumping saddle.

• Hip to knee length determines where your knee and leg fit in accordance to the angle and point of the flap. Look to fit this part of your leg first. The rotation and size of the saddle flap should complement the angle of your leg. Your knee should hit at the top point of the flap with at least two fingers to spare.
• Saddle seat size affects your comfort, ability to move and effectiveness in seat aids. Ignore the seat size measurement of the saddle and work with what actually fits your body. Every manufacturer's saddle seat sizing will feel different. Most saddles require that you fit between three to four fingers (a hand's width) behind your bottom and the tip of the cantle. If you feel confined in a deep-seated saddle, then try the next seat size up.
• Flap length is less important than the way the flap shape complements the angle of your leg. As a general guideline, the flap will fall only about a third of the way down your calf. The goal in determining flap length is to avoid having the edge of the saddle flap catch on the top of your tall boot or half chap.
• Riding style, your own personal preference, for any one factor of the saddle and your position as determined by your unique physical build is always important. If you feel confined or restricted in a saddle, or conversely, do not feel supported, try another saddle.

How to Clean Your Leather Saddle
Care for your saddle properly to ensure it can provide years of service.

After every ride, wipe perspiration and footing dust from your saddle with a barely moistened rag. Pay particular attention to removing grime from the billet straps. These critically important straps are the most likely area of your saddle to wear first as they are exposed to horse sweat and are always placed under great pressure during use. They may require more frequent conditioning than other parts of your saddle.

Once weekly, clean and condition all leather surfaces of your saddle using either the traditional glycerin soap method or a specially formulated leather cleanser. The economical glycerin soap method of cleaning involves wiping your saddle with a moistened sponge to remove dust and dirt. Rub hard to remove grime. When the leather feels smooth and clean, rub a nearly dry sponge or rag against the glycerin soap bar. Apply a thin layer of glycerin soap (no suds during this step) to your leather to seal its pores and keep it soft, but not sticky.

Newer methods of cleaning your saddle involve convenient and easy-to-use tack cleaning and conditioning products; follow the manufacturers' label instructions on any product you choose. Almost every tack manufacturer has a recommendation or product preference for cleaning and conditioning its saddles, and some manufacturers produce their own. Additionally, some suede, buffalo or patent leather may require special care according to the saddle maker. Always follow saddle manufacturer's guidelines when considering commercial leather cleaners and conditioners.

One-step leather cleaners also condition your leather as you wipe away grime. Two-step cleaners usually advise following cleansing with a conditioner that will soften and protect the leather.

Leather Grains & Quality

Saddle leather is made from a variety of animal hides. The hides are preserved through a process called tanning, during which a chemical (tannin) is usually applied to the hide. Many methods of tanning have been developed over the centuries. These processes are also used for leather in bridles, halters and other tack.

The most common tannins you'll hear about these days are vegetable-based, resulting from the bark of trees, wood or other plant parts, or chrome-based, where chromium salts are used. Other types of tannins exist, but are less commonly used. Color imparted to the hide during tanning varies depending on the process and tannin used. Dyes and pigments are often applied to leather later in the production process.

After tanning, hides may be split to obtain a material that can be crafted into useful products or apparel. If the top surface of a hide is of exceptional leather quality, meaning that it does not have much damage from insects, scars or brand marks, then it can be used as-is and is called full grain leather.

Full grain leather is the best leather quality because it has not been separated from the top grain or split layers, and is therefore the strongest and most durable type of leather. The grain remains intact, and the pores and patterns of the hide can be seen. As an example, pigskin leather is known for its deep hair follicle pattern, while buffalo leather is known for its pronounced patterning or sometimes pebbly appearance. Full grain leather is the most breathable type of leather, so you'll often find it in boots and saddles. When properly cared for, this type of leather will wear for a long time and develop a rich patina.

Top grain leather is made from hides that are considered to be too flawed to become full grain leather. It has had the split layer of the hide removed from it, leaving it softer and more pliable than full grain leather. The leather is then sanded or buffed to remove flaws. It may have a finish coat added to the surface, making it less breathable than full grain leather. The name "top grain" often confuses consumers as it makes this type of leather seem to be the "top quality." In fact, it is not the highest leather quality- full grain leather is. The grain in this type of leather may be "corrected," where imperfections in the hide are removed through sanding. Then an artificial grain is pressed into the leather and topped with a treatment of pigment or stain. Top grain leather is also used to create suede and nubuck.